Kyoto, Japan - Dec 2025

4 Dec 2025

I landed in Osaka from Shanghai and somehow, less than an hour later I was already on the Haruka train to Kyoto. Service staff at the station helped me book a seat and I was grateful it was a seat in a reserved car as the unreserved cars were packed with people.
The conductor chased several confused passengers away with nothing more than pointing at the door, no words - no mercy on the trains. Order restored - efficiency at its finest.

Kyoto gently unfolded itself over the next few days with its calm and timeless feel. With temps around 13°C and sunny or slightly overcast weather, it was perfect for walking which I did a lot.
I stayed in Gion district and walked around the nearby Hanamikoji Street often. This fascinating street of old Japanese wooden houses, high-end restaurants and tiny shops is unmistakably traditional, a little scruffy in places but very charming because of it.
In the evenings business people arrive at restaurants to be whisked away later by their waiting drivers. There is a possibility of catching a glimpse of a geisha walking to or from evening engagements but blink and you’ll miss her. 

Both the main and side streets are very dark at night contributing to the old world atmosphere where red lanterns light the way. 

I debated about visiting Nara, the famous deer park about 40 km from Kyoto. But the next day was a beautiful sunny day and transport connections to Nara are excellent, so I gave it a go. 
Navigating the metro and transferring to railways was easy. Did I mention that the metro seats are heated, still amazed by it.
Soon, I was in Nara and after a short walk, in a park populated by a million of very confident deer. Ok, maybe not a million but there was no question who owns the place. The first thing I noticed was a smell, not very surprising really, but I haven’t been to anything resembling a farm for a very long time. The second thing was the need to buy deer biscuits. 

The moment I offered one biscuit, several deer surrounded me and no matter how fast I walked and tried to get away, they were glued to me and it was a bit terrifying just how persistent they were. So I made a short story of it and dumped all my biscuits on the ground and voila, I was done. 
To indicate you don’t have any biscuits left, you are supposed to raise both arms in the air like you’re surrendering. Amazingly, they seem to understand and (mostly) leave you alone. One of them headbutted my backside without warning which made me scream and laugh at the same time. They are certainly bold.

Towards the end of the visit, I met a couple of  polite deer who nodded at me which was super nice and sweet, they looked like they were bowing. But I had no biscuits left thanks to their lively relatives earlier. 

Back in Kyoto, I walked along the Kamogawa River, where restaurants and tea houses preserved from the times past, lined the river banks. In the summer, windows and terraces open to let in fresh breeze. The river itself is everyone’s - joggers, painters, the place where local youth like to sit and chat. Relaxed, everyday Kyoto.

For my last full day in Kyoto on 7 Dec, I set an ambitious 5:30 alarm to visit Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. Well, that didn’t happen. The universal advice is to go very early to beat the crowd. I had good intentions which did not survive in real life.
Instead, I went to a tiny local temple across the alley from my hotel, dedicated to relationships and everyday prayers. I walked around the streets, noticing non-touristy temples visited by older women in everyday kimonos. Stepped into one, lit incense and bowed quietly. Calm and unplanned moments.

Later, I headed to the small and beautiful Gion Kagai Art Museum, devoted to Geiko and Maiko. To explain the terms: Maiko are apprentice geishas, usually aged 15–20, training for around five years, while fully trained geishas are called Geiko in Kyoto. 
I opted for the full experience: the museum, a stroll through the garden, an intimate Geiko dance performance for a tiny audience and individual photos with Geiko afterwards. The two traditional Kyoto dances Geiko performed were elegant and restrained in the graceful Mai style where every movement is minimal and deliberate. It was beautiful and mesmerasing.

By about 15:00, I decided to finally attempt Arashiyama Bamboo Forest since it is only 30 minutes away from central Kyoto, so why not. Once there I found plenty of my tribe: people who also couldn’t make the early-morning mission. It was crowded, but the forest is large with quieter parts and there are rides if walking feels too much. The place has an otherworldly feel and ninjas dropping from the bamboo trees wouldn’t seem out of place.

As everyone says, visit during the day on a sunny afternoon or at sunset for the light filtering through the bamboo — and to avoid the crowds, aim for 7:00. The whole area around the Bamboo forest is interesting with plenty of places to stop, rest, eat.
Or accept your fate and go very late, like I did.

Here is my room in Kyoto Inn Gion. Easily bookable via different agencies e.g. Booking.com, Expedia, Hotels.com etc. where they call it Kyoto Inn Gion the Second.
Did I mention that everything I’ve described in this blog was within walking distance? Only Nara and the Bamboo Forest required a little journey beyond my daily walkabouts.

And please ignore my slightly snide remark about not being offered pyjamas in Shanghai. The video is unedited — otherwise I would have taken that bit out. Sorry Shanghai!
Also ignore the “safe”, it was a fridge!

More photos and videos to be added…